Monday 11 October 2010

Masks and Masquerades

Those few days in the Caribbean turned into just a few more, and then just a few more again. Having met up with previous travelling buddies from Costa Rica, I experienced a whole new level of exploring the islands. I swam and snorkeled and swam some more, discovering to my amusement that whilst I certainly cannot sink in warm (therefore very saline) tropical water, Israeli guys certainly cannot float. I spent and night on Isla Bastimientos where I met a guy skinning a shark that had tried to attack him whilst spear-fishing. And a very drunk old racist German guy who was hitting on my German friend and wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Finally time came to pack up and leave and I headed up to the biggest city in the world.

Arriving at Mexico City at midnight was an experience. The slew of currency exchange places vying for my attention, their enthusiasm immediately turned to disinterest when they realise I have travellers cheques instead of actual US dollars. I was informed by all and sundry that they couldn't exchange AmEx travellers cheques. Even though their booths displayed a rate for exchanging the cheques... Finally I gave up and found an ATM. Newly armed with Pesos I headed to the safe taxi booths. The first booth tried to sell me a ride for MX$180 to the centre of Mexico City. Knowing that the rate should be around MX$120 I asked to see his screen, seeing that the address he showed me was in zone 5. Even though I'd clearly told him my hostel was in zone 3. I rapidly moved onto a more competent company.

My hostel was brand new and very plush, rather like a hotel in ways, and full of Spaniards and Central Americans, which did wonders for my ailing Spanish, but was rather exhausting. The first day there I headed to the Zocalo to explore the sights that the centre of Mexico has to offer. I discovered that for the first time I was wandering around without being with men on in a mixed group, and it showed. I was hit on time after time by Mexican men who wouldn't take a rather unsubtle hint. Finally I gave in and decided to make use of the constant stream of locals. I ended up with a free walking tour of the centre of town, a free tour of the Arts Palace and help with locating and bartering for gifts and souvenirs. Finally I escaped the centre and headed out on a tour to the Mexican wrestling. Just as fixed as any other wrestling, but much funnier. I can't see the team of the fat guy, the old guy and the gay guy being allowed to win in any other setting. This experience also did wonders for my Spanish - although I won't be repeating what I learnt here...

I also headed out of the centre to view the virgin of Guadeloupe. A brown virgin, although this isn't immediately obvious by the shroud she's imprinted upon. Then on to visit the pyramids of the sun and the moon in a pre-Colombian, pre-Aztec city that enjoyed 600 years of power well before the Aztecs were more than just a nomad tribe of misfits. Interestingly the Aztecs were not even in power of the Mexican valley for 100 years by the time of the conquest. Part of this visit included learning the different uses of the cactus that tequila and mescalin are made from (yes it has more uses!). Natural paper can be peeled from the leaves, a ready threaded needle can be snapped from the centre, and the thread quickly and irreversibly dyed using various flowers. Also soap can be extracted and I'm sure many other uses were mentioned, but by that time the pre-lunch tasting session had kicked in. 4 shots of liquor before lunch? Welcome to Mexico!

And as all good things must come to an end, so has the money, and therefore the journey. Now it's time for the next big adventure - trying to curb the wanderlust and hold down a conventional life for a while. I can do it, just don't expect me to be happy about it...

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