Thursday, 18 February 2010
In the real world, just upside down...
Unfortunately a consequence of the long-term travel is that you inevitably run out of money, and that means work. So yes, I am still in Christchurch (and therefore can comfortably say to you all: "stop living in the past!". Yes, bad joke, I know), and no I am not still waitressing. Much. I now have full-time employment being shouted at down the phone. But at least I get regular breaks and the pay's OK. Of course I now have the added bonus of having my boyfriend here (at least until New Zealand realise their mistake as he drinks them dry...), so we're doing usual couple stuff of looking for somewhere to live, buying a car, etc. A normal life, just on the wrong side of the world!
Of course part of me is desperate to move on. The rest of me knows full well that money is a necessary evil and if I stick with work for a few months I will have enough money to leave the English speaking world and stretch my Spanish to the limit! A few months more and I might even be dragging a certain Australian chappy along with me.
In a week my parents come to join me for a few weeks holiday (possibly checking that I REALLY am still alive since I've been so lax with the blog...), so stories of travels and misadventures should abound... Especially when they meet my Aussie...
Thursday, 3 December 2009
Define "summer"
So now that's out of the way, let's get on with what I've been up to.... Well, I'm still in Christchurch, still working a few evenings here and there, and still WOOFing at the hostel I'm at (for those of you not in the know that means I'm cleaning a few hours a day in exchange for accommodation). This has the advantage that costs are low, and therefore can just about be covered by the few nights a week waitressing, as well as providing a constant stream of travellers tales. Many of these are very similar, involving frequently backpacked regions of South East Asia (although every time they're told they're told by someone who was definitely "off the beaten track") or the Australian "Outback". This may sound monotonous (and indeed it can be as every person in convinced that they are the first person in existence to have this particular experience), but every-so-often you come across someone who has taken a different route, had a truly interesting (or horrifying!) experience, or is just a damn good storyteller, making the whole exercise seem worthwhile.
Aside from this I have been exploring Christchurch further: taking the gondola up to see the views over Christchurch and Lyttleton Harbour (pictured), wondering at the ducks in the botanic gardens (how DO they keep their heads on their backs whilst they sleep?) and visiting the art gallery, where I made a snowflake bauble and attended a lecture on the same day. Only today I explored one of the out-of-town malls. I suspect my wallet would have been happier if I hadn't...
Friday, 20 November 2009
...Hello New Zealand
OK, so I am a wimp and get cold easily (as everyone who knows me can testify to), but a little cold never put me off before. I did survive Siberia. But (unsurprisingly) a high of 14C feels VERY cold when you're used to temperatures above 30C... I would like to blame the temperature here on my having contracted a cold (no it is not swine flu, it's just a cold people!). However that would be rather unfair and unscientific of me. The cold is much more likely to be due to the abundance of backpackers and alcohol found in your average hostel. One of which reduces your immune system, the other of which facilitates the transport of viruses, such as the common cold, around the world. I leave you to decide which does which.
So apart from wallowing in self-pity, what have I been doing? Mostly not a lot. There was that abundance of alcohol previously mentioned (alcohol being significantly chea
Thursday, 22 October 2009
Goodbye Broome....
Pindan Land
We went snorkelling at Cape Leveque, watching the fish dart among the
The next day we headed to the turtle hatchery at One Arm Point Aboriginal Community, where we saw sea turtles, but unfortunately didn't see any babies, then it was a pretty fast drive back down to Broome to get the car back in time to remove all the pindan (red dirt) that had eked its' way into every crevice (of both the car and us!)
Friday, 16 October 2009
Shake, Rattle and Please Don't Roll!
Yes I am still alive - promise!
Last time I wrote was a few months ago now and it had just rained. Let me start by saying that the “dry” in Broome is not a misnomer. It hasn't rained since then. Not one drop! Although sometimes the temperature drops enough at night for the moisture in the air to condense on the metal roofs and drip down so persistently that it looks like rain. Until you step out from under the eaves. We are now in the buildup to the “wet” (charmingly nicknamed the “sweat” in housekeeping: it's physical work and as the humidity rises... well I don't really need to explain do I?), which basically means that instead of a balmy 32C every day it's now risen to a humid 36-39C daily, and the humidity is rising daily. Everyone has started looking for the storm clouds on the horizon that will bring the first rain, but I doubt I'll still be here when it happens. Of course the storm clouds are currently obscured by the smoke from the band of wildfire burning just outside of town and cutting Broome off from the North completely.
Sunday, 21 June 2009
Bad apples
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Broometime
Well what have I been up to? I've been gradually adjusting to “Broometime”. Which roughly translates as “you're in the tropics, but with less spicy food”. And yes, I certainly am in the tropics here. I've been trying to define tropical, and I've come up with a few criteria:
You can eat the coconuts that fall from the palm trees in the grounds of the hotel.
There are lots of scooters, even if they don't carry families of 5 (I am in Australia still....).
People walk around barefoot a lot. Even into town (although you only make the mistake of walking barefoot past the Commonwealth Bank once – there's a thorn tree somewhere near there...)
It doesn't rain, it RAINS, stopping as suddenly as it started.
The sea is an impossible shade of turquoise.
Going to the beach can be a full-time activity...
Saying that I've not made it to Cable Beach that much, and only once with my camera - to see the sunset. Unfortunately on a cloudy day! Even with this deficit of beach visits half of Cable Beach still seems to have made it into our dorm room.
Apart from that life has consisted of working and getting to know the other staff here. Housekeeping in a hotel that has no room numbers containing the number 13 and working in a restaurant with a steak special, but only 6 steak knives. And alcoholic chefs. But the better you get to know the chefs here, the more snacks you get whilst working, and the more likely you are to be able to request staff food that you like!
And that's enough for Broometime. It may now be beachtime...
Wednesday, 27 May 2009
Gone Fishin'
We were meant to be heading off fishing again, with two of the other chefs. But they never checked the tides, and it was always going to be more about beer than fishing, then suddenly it rained! So yes, I've been fishing, but there's not a lot else to do here... You work, you hang out on the beach, you play tennis (we can use the hotel facilities) if it's not too hot, you drink, you laugh at the hungover people trying to do housekeeping...
Friday, 22 May 2009
I guess the sharks weren't hungry?
I've also found my way around town a little and got to know the people in staff accommodation a little better. The big night in town is a Thursday night when everyone heads down the Roey for the wet t-shirt competition. Yes I really am in the middle of nowhere!
Yesterday it was wet. There isn't a lot to do in Broome apart from drink when it's raining. And seeing as they can't sell alcohol in volumes larger than 1 litre here, that means no goon. I'm going to have to be careful with my money. I'm guessing the alcohol rule is because they have a lot of problems with alcohol addiction here. As Broome is the regional centre, the street that I walk down into town has the police station and prison on one side of the road and the courts and “dry out centre” on the other side. I guess that pretty much says it all...
This afternoon a group of us are off to Cable Beach, which will be my first time on any of the beaches up here. I'm looking forward to the turquoise sea, even if I know I can't swim in it because of the crocs, sharks and stingers. The way that people talk you start to suspect that the sea is full of creatures with a taste for human flesh just waiting for you to get close enough. I suspect that this is a slight exaggeration, but I'll let you know if I see lines of eyes watching us as we wander along the beach, and if I see any holding salt and pepper shakers I'll be getting out of there pretty pronto. Maybe a little paddle along the shoreline – it is about 30C. A few of us played tennis this morning in the hotel. Or more specifically we headed to the tennis court with rackets and balls and proceeded to hit them vaguely in the direction of each other, but missing them more often than not. I for one need some practice. I certainly hit some balls, as evidenced by the balls that ended up outside of the court, but it probably would be more conducive to a rally if I kept them within the fences... The heat doesn't help either – suddenly hitting a ball doesn't seem so important if it means running for it, but we gave it a good go and I now feel that we deserve to crash on the beach for the afternoon.
Well, I still haven't posted this, so I'll say that we all went to Cable Beach, piled into 2 cars, we all swam in the sea, if only briefly and in the shallows. We bought beer and were just settling in to enjoy the sunset over the beach (Broome is apparently the only place in Australia that you can enjoy both the sunset and the sunrise over water), when three mobile phones rang as the hotel realised they were understaffed and called us in. Mine was one of them, so one of the guys drove the three of us that were working back to the hotel and I had my first evening shift in the restaurant when it was slightly chaotic and I'd already consumed 2 beers. So I have yet to see the sunset over Cable Beach.
Thursday, 14 May 2009
Red earth, turquoise sea
So Broome, what do I know of it so far? I know it's small (the airport's pretty much in the centre of town) it's warm (but you still need a jumper outside at night) and that there's a 3m croc in the creek, although I've yet to discover where the creek is... I think that may be the task for the afternoon.
Sunday, 10 May 2009
Onwards and upwards
Therefore I've taken my last few days to explore around Perth a little and do the “tourist thing”. I went down to Freemantle – the first settlement around here. Whilst my guidebook says to allow at least a day for Freemantle, I allowed an afternoon. And I was very glad that I did, as I was bored before I'd been there for two hours. Not a comment on Freemantle so much as me. I just don't think it was for me. Whilst I found the shipwreck museum interesting, I was more interested in the temporary exhibition about early trade routes and navigation than of all of the artifacts that they'd pulled out of the sea near here. The history of Dutch shipping and their discovery of a faster route to the spices of Java was very interesting. The numerous bits of pottery, coins and fabric swatches less so...
I also visited “the roundhouse”. The oldest building and early prison. Again interesting, but no historical facts or concepts that I wasn't already familiar with. And then I notice a passing reference that this land was populated with aboriginals when the first ships arrived. And that's it. Just a passing reference. What did the Europeans do to them? Now that would be a story I would be interested in. Something that I didn't learn in school. But as always the interesting stories are glossed over for dates and measurements. In a way I was reminded of the audioguides in China, which put great emphasis on describing everything that is in front of you, giving you the measurements (which are pointless as you can see how big it is – it's in front of you!) and dates (which you can get from your guidebook), but no actual history or context.
After this I wandered around the famous Freemantle markets, which had a lot of interesting wares for sale, most of which were, for some reason, imported from Asia, and not a great place to spend time when you know that you have no money to spend (incidentally I chose the museums to visit that were free entry or entry by donation). I also visited the less famous E block markets by the quays. Which were similar to the Freemantle markets, but surprisingly with more tat at higher prices.
Apart from Freemantle, most of my tourist exploration has centered on the beaches, and these are by far the most satisfying option. Beautiful expanses of soft white sand that stretch for miles along the blue of the Indian Ocean. I only hope that Broome is as beautiful!
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Asia-lite
On the way to Perth I stopped in to visit an old work mate in Singapore for a few days. It also coincided with my Birthday - well I figured I hadn’t spent a Birthday in Asia yet! And I’m still not sure that I have. Singapore is very much “Asia-lite”. It’s westernised facilities with an Asian cultural background. They even speak English lah! (OK, well “Singlish”, but technically it’s the same language). There are lots of rules and laws. It’s illegal for two men to have sex. Apparently it’s OK to be a lesbian though. I wonder whether that’s because the politicians don’t mind watching the ladies? Which leads me onto the next bizarre law: It’s illegal to be naked in your own home. Unlike at home, if someone’s watching you through the windows of your home and you’re naked, they’re not a peeping-tom, you’re an exhibitionist! So how do they take showers…?
In Singapore I mostly ate at home, and we ate European food (and some very delicious Tzatziki at his Greek friends house). I did, however, get to try some traditional Singaporean cuisine on my first night in Singapore, in a very lovely seafood place around the corner from my friends compound. I had Chilli Crab - basically a whole crab (on which I broke a tooth. On my first night out of the UK, at least it was on something yummy!) swimming in a sauce of chilli sauce. Also deep-fried whole prawns coated in cereal - a bit like eating a bowl of warm muesli dry and finding prawns in it! Apparently you can eat them whole, crunching through the shells. I was more keen on removing them and eating the delicious prawn inside! Apparently the locals suck the brains out of the prawns as they believe that it gives them “power”. That seems to apply to a lot of foods. The more gross, the more power seems to be the rule with food! But only to be eaten in a designated area. No eating or drinking in many places - including on trains and on station platforms. But it’s so hot does this include water? There are so many rules that I wonder whether that’s why everyone seems to smoke - maybe it’s the last rebellion allowed?
I didn’t really do much sightseeing in Singapore. To be honest there aren’t really many sights. Unless you’re interested in shopping. There are a lot of malls. And most of the shops are incredibly familiar. Either from the UK, or Australia. I did take a wander around ‘Little India’, which was full of impressive moustaches and shops selling gold and saris. To be honest it reminded me of a warm, sunny Bradford. So not Bradford at all!
We also went out on Clarke Quay. The best way I can think to describe this is “Disneyland for adults”. It’s bright - almost garish - with lots of places to eat and drink, all a bit quirky, and various rather strange sculptures… One of the bars we passed was clearly based on a medical theme. People sat on benches made from hospital gurneys cut in half and had drinks hanging from bags on drips. Fortunately I didn’t notice anyone actually taking their cocktails intravenously, instead they seemed to drink from syringes. I couldn’t help but wonder whether they were sterile sealed syringes, or from the local hospital… We later went along to Boat Quay where we had a drink in a classic British pub (I assume it was British rather than Irish because of the name: “The Penny Black”, but we went there for the Guiness). Interestingly this row of pubs and bars, along the waterfront, seemed to be where all the ex-pats and tourists hung out, whereas parallel to the water, one street further in, was where Singapore hung out - complete with very bad karaoke issuing from most bars.
My last day in Singapore was spent wandering along walkways above rainforest in a
To be honest all of Singapore is a jungle. There’s the green canopy of trees, and above the grey canopy of high-rise buildings. On the ground, instead of leaf-litter there’s, well, strict fines if you drop litter, so it’s pretty clean. It does feel like the city is growing as part of the forest though. And I guess there’s not a lot of choice than to grow up. Singapore is a small country. On the plane on the way to Perth I spoke to a man who lives in Malaysia. Except his closest airport is Singapore. So he hops across the border to catch flights, but lives in the green space allowed by having just that bit more land.
So that’s Singapore really. An interesting place that seems to be an Eastern caricature of Western life.
Sunday, 1 March 2009
Melbourne smells of eucalyptus
My job has extended for another couple of weeks, so I may just be able to fly back out to Australia... I'm taking it one day at a time at the moment!
Tuesday, 17 February 2009
By the way, the fires didn't get as far as Melbourne
The end is nigh?
Thursday, 29 January 2009
Brits in Melbourne on Australia Day
Saturday, 17 January 2009
Japan or Melbourne?
I'm also getting a bit nostalgic for St Arnauds hostel, which has become a bit like a second home (albeit one where your room is shared with snorers and borderline alcoholics...), as tomorrow I check out. Yes, I have somewhere to live!! I will be living in Prahan for the next 6 months with two lovely Australian girls (address available on request). Now all I need is a job to pay the rent...
Tuesday, 13 January 2009
Sweden is a bad influence...
Of course drinking on a Thursday night is only possible as I still have no job or flat. I'm ever hopeful... but 37C heat makes it rather hard to think, let alone trapse round town!